You can get third-party Joy-Con controllers that use Hall effect sensors. Hall effect sensors cost more than potentiometers, which is why they aren’t what console vendors typically ship, but don’t experience drift.
You can also get replacement Hall effect analog sticks from Gulikit and install them in your joycons yourself. They also made them for the Steam Deck. I installed a set in my old LCD Steam Deck and it was really straightforward, but I suspect the joycons take a bit more work.
It’s a shame they don’t make them for the PS5 - there are multiple third party controllers with Hall effect sensors that are compatible with pretty much everything else, but there’s only one Hall effect controller compatible with the PS5 (the Nacon Revolution 5 Pro), and it’s $200.
They also make them for the new 8bitdo controllers (at least the SN/SF30 pro, those shaped like SNES controllers. One of my favourite controller designs ever).
Unfortunately it seems they don’t sell those sticks as parts, only in new controllers.
My SN30 pro’s left stick started to drift, and it means it’s basically dead. I’m a bit pissed about that.
I have the 8bitdo SN30 Pro+ and almost got one of their Hall effect controllers for my most recent controller (but ended up going with the King Kong 3 Max instead).
I noticed they have a repair parts section on their shop, but frustratingly, it doesn’t have analog stick replacements - just the joystick caps.
There’s an iFixit guide to replacing them, but it doesn’t list where you can get the new part, either. I’m guessing they use a standard part - maybe even one you could get for a few bucks off AliExpress - assuming you’re up to the task of desoldering the old stick and resoldering the new one.
Yeah, I saw their repair part section, they offer very little.
To make it more annoying, I already repaired that very controller. I had to change the battery because the old one was becoming useless. It was not too easy, since all I could find as a generic part (following a YouTube tutorial) was a slightly bigger battery that was a pain to fit in the case.
You can get third-party Joy-Con controllers that use Hall effect sensors. Hall effect sensors cost more than potentiometers, which is why they aren’t what console vendors typically ship, but don’t experience drift.
You can also get replacement Hall effect analog sticks from Gulikit and install them in your joycons yourself. They also made them for the Steam Deck. I installed a set in my old LCD Steam Deck and it was really straightforward, but I suspect the joycons take a bit more work.
It’s a shame they don’t make them for the PS5 - there are multiple third party controllers with Hall effect sensors that are compatible with pretty much everything else, but there’s only one Hall effect controller compatible with the PS5 (the Nacon Revolution 5 Pro), and it’s $200.
It looks like you need a Y00 bit screwdriver.
https://wiki.handheldlegend.com/gulikit-hall-effect-sensor-install-guide
They also make them for the new 8bitdo controllers (at least the SN/SF30 pro, those shaped like SNES controllers. One of my favourite controller designs ever).
Unfortunately it seems they don’t sell those sticks as parts, only in new controllers.
My SN30 pro’s left stick started to drift, and it means it’s basically dead. I’m a bit pissed about that.
I have the 8bitdo SN30 Pro+ and almost got one of their Hall effect controllers for my most recent controller (but ended up going with the King Kong 3 Max instead).
I noticed they have a repair parts section on their shop, but frustratingly, it doesn’t have analog stick replacements - just the joystick caps.
There’s an iFixit guide to replacing them, but it doesn’t list where you can get the new part, either. I’m guessing they use a standard part - maybe even one you could get for a few bucks off AliExpress - assuming you’re up to the task of desoldering the old stick and resoldering the new one.
Yeah, I saw their repair part section, they offer very little.
To make it more annoying, I already repaired that very controller. I had to change the battery because the old one was becoming useless. It was not too easy, since all I could find as a generic part (following a YouTube tutorial) was a slightly bigger battery that was a pain to fit in the case.
Nobody should have to do that and it’s fucked up that they won’t actually fix the problem.