Only if it’s a specialty filament or something tricky; like Proto-Pasta can be. If I’m just running another spool of Hatchbox or Overture I just use my generic PLA profile and send it.

I tune whenever I start getting failures, or if I completely switch materials. For example, with petg, it works better to have a thicker initial layer so I’ll raise the z offset a bit going from pla to petg, and the opposite going back.

But I’ve gone through multiple rolls without needing to tune.

Not really, I usually run a test print. But I have noticed that sometimes a different color will need different settings, even if it’s the same material and brand.

One thing that I do for every roll is to put an ID number on it and weigh it, and put that into a database. That way I have a good estimate of whether or not I have enough filament for a project.

I calibrate flow rate for each filament, and looking at my SuperSlicer profiles I have values between 0.95 and 0.99 for PLA from different brands/product lines. I also have different temp settings for some, but that’s more a result of adjusting after prints than having actually calibrated it. I’ve been experimenting a lot though and have never bought the same filament twice but I would probably not recalibrate for a new spool of something I already have.

But if not calibrating works for you then there’s ofc. no point in doing it.

Mostly I tune each type of filament. If using something new or haven’t used in a while I’ll do a calibration cube. After that I know to adjust or send it

I don’t do it for every spool, but I’ll generally tune for each brand I have. Elegoo’s PLA prints different than IIID Max PLA+, so I have profiles for both. I’ll only tune a new spool if it’s not printing well with the brand’s profile

I didn’t on my FlashForge CreatorPro unless I had an issue, but I do on my BambuLab X1C - but that’s because it’s a fully automated process using the built in lidar.

Yes and no.

I use a ton of different brands, so I always print a temp tower and a swatch card. I can’t keep track of which word salad brand on Amazon is rebadged SunLu or eSun. I could totally see people that stick to only a couple brands doing a full calibration for each type and brand (maybe not color always, but I would do a quick comparison white-gray-black and anything exotic).

Reading the answers make me feel bad about myself.

I never really calibrated my printer. I have a BLTouch so I rarely have to level the bed, I correct the Z offset when my prints start failing, and that’s pretty much it.

I should probably start taking printing more seriously.

I used to. Now I just put settings I think will be close, print a calibration cube, make some adjustments based on what I see, and go to town. I spent 2 entire weeks figuring out all of the optimal settings for my printer for PLA+. Most of those settings work well for everything and because I spent so much time learning about printer calibration, I have a pretty solid idea of what I need to change from looking at the cube.

I will gladly open a new roll mid print and continue a print with an untested roll. I simply don’t print things that need that level of fiddling.

I adjust flowrate(by printing a square in each corner & center) but that’s about it unless I get issues which is practically non existent.

I don’t. But I do try and make sure my filaments are kind of similar.

I’m a little more careful when I switch between PLA and PETG, mostly to prevent clogs, but I definitely don’t recalibrate anything when switching spools unless I start having problems.

I usually print a temp tower when I get new filament that I haven’t used before. It doesn’t take that long and if it prevents a failed print it’s totally worth it.